The only temple in Goa to have survived Portuguese Inquisition

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Photo Courtesy: ‘Temples of Goa’ by Kamla Mankekar
The Portuguese inquisition saw the rampant destruction of the Hindu temples in Goa. Every temple that came into sight of the Portuguese authorities was grazed down and looted. Except for this one temple hidden away in the forest on the present day Goa Karnataka border – the Mahadeva Temple at Tambdi Surla.
 
History:
 
This temple was probably constructed under the patronage of the Kadamba ruler Shivachitta Permadideva (r. 12th century) and his pious queen Kamaladevi who had built temples in Karnataka at Degamve which, according to an inscription there (1176 ce) were constructed by Tippoja, the son of Sutradhara Holoja. (Sutradhara is the master architect who designs the temple under the guidance of the preceptor priest.)
 
The late Anant Ramkrishna Sinai Dhume is credited with rediscovering the temple in 1935 during Portuguese rule.
 
 
Location:
 
Tambdi Surla is so called because of the deep brown-red earth found there due to the presence of iron ore in the area. The Surla village is half a mile down the road, there is no hamlet nor a hut for the priest. The temple is located inside the area of Bhagwan Mahavir National Park
 
The temple’s remote location was one of the key reasons that it survives until today. It is also the reason why this place still has old world charm.
 
Tip: You may want to combine this day trip with a hike to the nearby Dudhsagar Waterfall in Mollem National Park or Mhadei Wildlife Sanctuary in the northeast corner of the state. Also highly recommend you keep this document from the Archaeological Society of India (ASI) handy with you so that you can appreciate each feature of this ancient temple.

Structure:

The only well preserved basalt stone temple as later temples were constructed with laterite stone available plenty in the area. Basalt stone is suitable for very fine intricate carvings. There is no use of mortar in its construction instead the stone is riveted into a stone.

On the outside, the shikhara of the Mahadeva Temple at Tambdi Surla is decorated with just a few small but well carved images in three tiers on each of the three bhadras (the main offsets on the outer walls in each cardinal direction). Unfortunately, the top-tier sculptures on all three sides are destroyed. On the remaining two tiers, the south side has Brahma on the lower tier with Bhairava above; similarly, the west side has Natesha and Uma-Maheshvara and the north side has Vishnu  and Lakshmi-Vishnu .

The temple has three entrances from the north, south and east. The main entrance reached by a flight of steps is in the east so that the rays of the rising sun first falls on the deity.  The right side entrance door to the shrine has a snake image in the same basalt stone while on the left is a Dwarpala.

The inner design of the temple reflects our approach to spirituality – from the main body to the inner soul thus moving from the spacious pillared hall (mandapa) to the vestibule (antarala) and finally sanctum (garbhagriha).

The mandapa has 14 pillars, 10 plain pillars on the sides and four free standing and well-carved pillars in the central bay. The central ceiling panel of the mandapa has intricately carved eight-petalled lotuses Nandi being placed below the one in the centre. There are four niches (devakoshthas) in the hall decorated with miniature shikharas – which seem to have the same form as the main shikhara of the temple. These niches are on either side of the entrance to the vestibule. At present, the niches to the left of the entrance contain Vishnu and Mahishasuramardini; those to the right, a seated Ganesha and a Naga. There are two more Nagas, an entwined pair.  The pillars are monolith and in Hoysala style.

The entrance to the antarala is decorated with perforated panels reminiscent of Hoysala-style screens. The door-frames leading to the sanctum are plain. Ganesha is on the lalatabimba (central panel of the door frame) of the entrance to the sanctum. The lalatabimba serves as an auspicious symbol as well as an indication of the presiding deity inside the temple.

Inside the garbhagriha the Shivalinga is of fairly large proportions and sits on a spacious base. There are other two small Lingas placed against the wall in the background.

References:
Paper; Mahadeva Temple at Tambdi Surla, Goa by Kumud Kanitkar. Available to download here
Paper: Mahadev Temple, Tambdi Surna by Archaeological Society of India. Available to download here.