My Early Impressions

As a child, the name Betal conjured up one very specific image: the ghostly figure perched on King Vikramaditya’s back from the show Vikram and Betal. Pale, eerie, and whispering riddles, he was the stuff of bedtime chills and blanket-clutching nights. Betal also regularly appeared in the stories and conversations I heard from my elders.

One day we cousins gathered around our Ajja for a story. His stories weren’t about Gods or morals. They were more about occurrences in his life. Sitting next to my Ajja was his beedi friend – Goinda (Govinda). Govinda was the caretaker of the neighboring property. The owners had been under dispute for a long time and Govinda lived on the vast property alone away from his family making extra money by selling the coconuts to add to his meagre income. He was extremely dark-skinned – almost invisible in the night, with dark red eyes and was usually dressed in a faded dhoti wrapped up around his waist with a sickle tied in a knot.

Ajja started off with the story. I forget the details but it was about some person who had died young. He had ventured into the jungle against his family’s wishes. And he had seen Nagdo Betal and fainted. When he was found he had a high fever and passed away in a state of shock. As Goinda grinned at the punchline, baring yellowing teeth, the mood turned spine-chilling. I couldn’t sleep for nights after, afraid to close the window, imagining a dark figure might grab my hand from the shadows. No one ever explained who Nagdo Betal was. I assumed it meant someone terrifying — and, clearly, very naked.

Ajja wasn’t done with Betal. In another tale, he described a Betal who rode through the night on a horse, the air echoing with the ominous sound: “zail zail.” Anyone who saw him, Ajja said, would die.

Was it superstition? A story invented to keep kids indoors after dark? Perhaps. But the fear it stirred in me was very real.

That is, until my little cousin ran around the house in a tantrum — completely naked. My Ajji (grandmother) chuckled and said, “Dhavto pale nagdo Betal so!” (“Look at him, running around like a naked Betal!”). That moment made me laugh, and just like that, Betal lost a bit of his fearsome aura and became almost… human.

Betal/Vetaal of Goa

In Goa’s Konkan belt, Betal is not just a ghost story; he is a fundamental part of the local culture and spiritual landscape. As a gramdevata — a village deity, he embodies the duality of being both feared and revered, serving as a protector while instilling a healthy respect for the supernatural. He doesn’t resemble any Puranic god, nor does he align with the corpse-like Betals of Tantrik traditions or those that appear in the folktales of Northern India. Unlike these representations, Goa’s Betal is raw and indigenous — a ferocious, naked protector of his people, often invoked in times of crisis or distress. His presence resonates deeply within the community, symbolizing strength and resilience. Many villagers offer prayers and rituals to appease him, acknowledging that while he is a guardian, he is also swift to punish those who disrespect the natural order or the traditions of the land. Thus, Betal stands as a complex figure, interwoven into the very fabric of Goan identity and spirituality, reminding the people of their roots and the importance of living in harmony with the world around them.

The image of a fully developed fertile male as a protector must have emerged from the indigenious culture sort of like a demigod. Even after the onset of the more formalised Hindu traditions, Betaal maintained his position as the gramdevata – the village deity responsible for protection of the village and its people.

There are a couple of lines associated with the Betal each in a different context.

Nagdo Betalo, Shettham Vethalo,
Shethkarank udak divn gara vethalo
(The naked Betal will go to the fields and return after giving water to the farmers)

Nagdo Betalo, Shenoycha bainth nathalo,
Potbhor soro piyevn ghara vethalo
(The naked Betal will bathe in the Shenoy’s well and return home after drinking liquor to his stomach’s content)

These verses paint Betal not as an outsider, but as someone familiar — wandering among his people, sharing a drink, helping out, maybe scaring a few along the way.

Around the 12th century, Betal worship was included in mainstream Hinduism. Most GSB temples in Goa have a separate area outside the main garbha as a panchaytan (affiliated deity) where Betal is installed for his worship. It is usually men who come to pay their respects to the deity but only a member of the indigenious community (guravs, ghadi, jalmi or ravals) is authorised to do the daily rituals. His devotees and priests try to avoid the sight of a woman or the sound of a woman’s bangles when they offer prayers to Betal. In some regions,he is covered in white dhoti and scarf and the animal sacrifice is replaced with liquor and bread. But the GSBs do not take the prasad home and if they do it is kept in the cowshed or handed over to people from the lower caste.

Various Betals in Goa

Before we delve further into some of the famous Betal sculptures in Goa, it is important to mention that a mere 50 or so out of the hundreds of ancient Betal sites in Goa survived the iconoclasm by the Portuguese. Every single site in the Bardez and Tiswadi talukas was destroyed. Unlike the idols of our traditional Kuldevatas, these were not moved to newer places to survive Portuguese Iconoclasm.

The material depiction of Betal depends on the era and the predominant architecture of those times. The very ancient ones are roughly carved wooden statues, or stone statues, in some cases like the one in Loliem his statue is more architecturally evolved while in some, his statue is covered with a metal cast to veil the naked form. In general, he is depicted as a ferocious, physically strong, naked mendicant wielding a weapon in his hand with a wide-eyed haunting gaze. Some unique Betal sculptures:

In ‘Swapna Saraswat’ author GopalKrishna Pai introduced Nagdo Betal as a sage and guide both revered and feared by the local families. They look upto him for guidance on the welfare and protection of the community. His character is distinct with his inoffensive nakedness toddy and betel leaves.

Recommended Resources

Rajan Parrikar’s blog with well captured pictures of different temples of Betal in Goa – https://blog.parrikar.com/tag/vetal/

Conversation with Dr. Rohit R. Phalgaonkar by VishwaKonkani (It is in Konkani)

Section on ‘Vetal Sculptures of Goa’ in Socio Cultural History of Goa by V.R Mitragotri (Chapter 4). Access here